With the opening of a new airport and more expedition cruises, Greenland is becoming increasingly accessible, though challenges remain.
Greenland, the vast island dominated by glaciers and icebergs, has long been a remote destination, but it is now becoming more accessible. With the opening of a new airport terminal in the capital, Nuuk, and the growth of expedition cruise itineraries, Greenland is poised to attract more visitors seeking to explore its frozen landscapes. However, travelling to and around this Arctic wonderland is not without its challenges, making it a destination best discovered by sea.
The island’s icy allure is unmistakable. At Ilulissat Icefjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site on Greenland’s jagged west coast, icebergs are a constant presence, some towering above the sea while others remain hidden beneath the surface. This fjord is home to Sermeq Kujalleq, one of the world’s fastest-moving glaciers, which calves an astonishing 35 cubic kilometres of ice annually. As I looked out from my room at Hotel Arctic, icebergs dotted the bay, creating a surreal, icy landscape. From walking along the fjord’s winding trails to navigating a small boat through narrow, iceberg-filled waters to the village of Ilimanaq, the sheer number of icebergs was overwhelming.
For those seeking to witness these natural wonders, Greenland is one of the best places in the world to do so. Unlike Antarctica, where the only more active glaciers are located, Greenland is much easier to reach from the northern hemisphere. Flights via Reykjavik or Copenhagen make it relatively simple to visit, but as I discovered, the logistical challenges can turn the journey into a test of patience. Greenland’s tiny settlements, scattered across a landmass ten times the size of the UK, are not connected by roads, and air travel is often the only option. However, due to frequent fog, flights are often delayed, sometimes for hours, sometimes for an entire day.
Rather than risking delays, I opted for an expedition cruise with Hurtigruten, a Norwegian cruise line, which allowed me to explore the island’s more accessible coastlines. Greenland’s interior is largely uninhabited, with 80% covered by an expansive ice sheet, making cruising the perfect way to see the country. Over several days, we visited coastal villages, where we learned about Greenland’s Inuit culture and history, and explored pristine, untouched landscapes. On one memorable day, we got up close to a blue-tinged glacier, the sound of cracking ice reverberating in the air as it calved into the sea.
One highlight was a boat ride along Greenland’s spectacular coastline, where we saw guillemots and glaucous gulls swooping above, and after a hike across a windswept beach, we took a quick plunge into the icy waters beside a small iceberg. Although bad weather prevented us from kayaking, we made the most of the opportunity to participate in a citizen science project, collecting fjord water samples for research on plankton, and later examining them under a microscope onboard.
The ship, the Fridtjof Nansen, was a luxurious base for our expedition. With Nordic-inspired design, panoramic views from every space, and world-class amenities, including an onboard sauna and observation decks, it offered comfort amid Greenland’s rugged landscapes. The expedition team, made up of experts in marine biology, geology, ornithology, and archaeology, further enriched the experience, offering lectures and informal talks on everything from local wildlife to the region’s history.
While the cruise was largely smooth, my travels weren’t without their hiccups. A 24-hour delay in international flights—due to weather—meant I missed part of the itinerary. Fortunately, with a new airport terminal in Nuuk opening on 28 November, and an Airbus A330 soon to be used on the route, travelling to Greenland is about to become much more reliable. Two additional airports are also planned by 2026, in Ilulissat and Qaqortoq, further improving accessibility.
As Greenland embraces more visitors, there are concerns about the impact of tourism on its small, remote communities. While the cruise industry has largely avoided the overtourism issues of other destinations, with small ships and itineraries designed to minimise environmental impact, the influx of visitors has raised questions about the balance between growth and sustainability. Laali Berthelsen, a Greenlander and HX product manager for the region, emphasises the importance of controlled expansion: “We want more tourism, but not mass tourism.”
One example of how controlled tourism can benefit local communities is in Ilimanaq, a village of just 50 people, where tourists help sustain the local economy. Thanks to the opening of Ilimanaq Lodge in 2017, the village has avoided collapse, providing jobs for locals and offering visitors a chance to experience authentic Greenlandic culture. The project has also enabled locals to offer tours and activities, such as dog-sledding and hiking, while preserving the unique character of this small settlement.
As I sat on the deck of my lodge, watching icebergs drift by under the glow of the midnight sun, I realised that while Greenland’s remote beauty may be fragile, it is well worth the effort to explore. If managed carefully, increased tourism can benefit both the environment and the people who call this icy island home. Like the icebergs themselves, Greenland is best approached with caution—its true beauty is often hidden beneath the surface, waiting to be discovered.
